Likoma Island was magic. It was one of those places where we drif

ted from our lovely beach hut to the restaurant, into the water for a swim, over to the hammocks, played a few games of boa and repeated the whole thing a few times each day. The food was great, the guys who worked in the bar were hilarious and helpful, and the island was incredibly beautiful. We thoroughly enjoyed our entire week between ferries.

Getting back onto the Ilala was, happily, much less dramatic than when we unloaded onto Likoma. We spent the night on the top deck and were soot-streaked by

morning when we arrived in Nkhata Bay.
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